Thursday, May 5, 2011

Hiking the Grand Canyon in April


 


Hiking the Grand Canyon - what could be a better adventure for five longtime friends from college?!!  Sherry, Pat, Sue, Leota and I were joined by Sue's daughter Heather and her husband Wes for an unforgetable trek down into the Canyon via the South Kaibab Trail.  We spent two nights at the rustic Phantom Ranch on the Canyon floor, then hiked back out on the Bright Angel Trail.



Pat, Leota, me, Sue, and Sherry at the Bright Angel Trailhead



Grand Canyon from Yavapai Point

 We arrived at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon just in time to witness a glorious sunset turning the rock formations to red and gold.  Skies were clear, but the wind was cold!

Sunset from Yavapai Point




Morning View from South Kaibab Trailhead



Our Crew at the Kaibab Trailhead
 We took the 8 am Hikers' Shuttle to the South Kaibab trailhead, shouldered our packs and headed out on our adventure in perfect sunny weather.  The Canyon was showing off its beautiful colors and fantastic rock formations for us.  The South Kaibab is a ridge trail, staying high above the valleys as it descends to the Canyon floor, making for spectacular views the whole way down the 6.7 miles.  Prevents too much concentration on sore knees!!




Pat Near the Top of Kaibab Trail



View from the Kaibab




Pat and Sue on the Trail



Heather and Wes on a Scenic Ridge


Leota and Sherry

Leota On the Brink



Leota, Sherry and Me on the Ridge of the Kaibab - What a View!!



Who Wouldn't Be Smiling On This Perfect Day???




Hiking Buddies - Me and Sue





Looking Down on the Switchbacks Above Tonto Plateau




Our First Glimpse of the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch - Way Below!!




Blooming Prickly Pear Cactus Along the Trail




The River's Getting Closer!!




Looking Down on the Black Bridge Over the Colorado River




The Mighty Colorado River

 Finally, after over six hours of hiking down the South Kaibab we crossed the Colorado River and stumbled, I mean hiked, into Phantom Ranch in the Bright Angel Creek Canyon.  This Canyon is cool and green, with many large cottonwood trees providing shade and welcome greenery.


We Made It to Phantom Ranch!
 Our dorm was spartan, but had real beds (upper and lower bunks) and a shower.  Heather and Wes were camping in the nearby Bright Angel Campground, so the five of us shared our dorm with five other women.  We met some very interesting people there from all over the world, and had a raucus time learning to climb into and out of our upper bunks with sore and tired muscles.  Our reputation seemed to spread within Phantom Ranch, and by the time we went to dinner in the canteen many people were apparently familiar with our story - friends from college, etc. . . ."Oh, so you're the ladies from Dorm 15!".  We weren't sure how this happened. . . .


Our Dorm, Number 15 on the Left



Cozy Room for Ten Ladies



The Canteen




We stayed at Phantom Ranch for two nights, and on the in-between day Sue, Heather, Wes and I went for a morning hike up the Clear Creek Trail.  This trail climbs steeply out of the Bright Angel Canyon to the east, with stunning views down to Phantom Ranch and the Colorado River far below.  We ate lunch at a particularly great viewpoint, then Sue and I hiked a couple of miles further east enjoying the breeze, the blooming cactus, and the breathtaking views of the Inner Canyon and the river.  We were back at Phantom Ranch before the afternoon heat reached 90 degrees, sitting in the shade of cottonwood trees writing postcards and drinking lemonade.

Bright Angel Creek North of Phantom Ranch



Sue on the Clear Creek Trail




Looking Across the Colorado at the Kaibab Trail


The Colorado River, Bright Angel Bridge and River Trail


Looking North from the Clear Creek Trail



Looking Down on Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Creek from the Clear Creek Trail


Colorado River and the Kaibab Bridge



Looking East Up the Colorado River


 After another night in Dorm 15 we were rested and ready for the long trek up out of the Grand Canyon via the 9.5 mile Bright Angel Trail.  Because the climb is long and hot we needed to get a very early start, so breakfast was at 5 am and we were on the trail by shortly after 6, just as the sun was coming up over the canyon walls.  After crossing the Colorado the trail follows the river for a mile or so, then begins to wind its way up through the Pipe Creek Valley, offering some shade and opportunities to refill water bottles, with the soaring cliffs of the Canyon as a constant companion.


Ready to Hike Up the Bright Angel Trail





Trail in Bright Angel Canyon




Bright Angel Creek


Bright Angel Trail Bridge Across the Colorado River

Colorado River at Sunrise


A Prophetic Warning

 


Heading for the Bright Angel Trail
 



 As we hiked the gently rising and falling trail along the river suddenly we heard a racket behind us, and someone yelling.  Sherry and I were close together on the trail, and turned to see a pack-mule train led by a wrangler bearing down on us at great speed!  The wrangler was yelling for us to get out of the way, so we pressed ourselves into the cliff on the high side of the trail, as you're supposed to do so you don't get pushed off the cliff by the mules . . .But he kept on yelling, saying "Wide load, wide load!!  Not enough room there!!"  So Sherry and I had to start running to get out of the way,  panting and swearing all the way and not sure how far we'd have to go to find the next wide spot on the trail.  Luckily we soon found a good shelter spot, pressed ourselves into the rock again, and this time the mule train went clattering by, barely inches from us.  After we caught our breath we started laughing maniacally . . .this would be a Youtube hit if only someone had captured it! 


The Mule Train



Fording Pipe Creek




Rest Stop at Indian Gardens

Five miles up the trail from Phantom Ranch is the oasis of Indian Gardens, with shade and water and places to sit and rest a bit.  We stopped here for a while and ate our "lunch", even though it was only 9:30.   From Indian Gardens the trail above gets steeper and hotter, with very little shade, so we needed to fuel up!



Looking Back Down the Canyon


Sue, Looking at Where We Need to Go!


Looking Back Down the Trail


Sherry, Pat, Leota and Sue
It's Steep Here!


Indian Gardens Below



 We've hiked a long way up by now - Indian Gardens looks tiny and remote, and it's hard to believe we really started out way down at the bottom of that huge canyon!  We still have a ways to go, though, and now we're hot and tired . . . but we never get tired of the panoramic vista below us.

Sherry and Pat Chugging Up the Last Mile


Sue, Almost There!







Our Final Views from the South Rim




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